South Africa: Wild Coast

21.01.2014

• Early BazBus - finished Elephant Whisperer and started Dostoyevsky - said goodbye to Naiara in Mthatha
• Transfer to shuttle to Bulungula - dirt roads - picked up supplies and other travelers, most local, but also an Aussie who had been hiking
• Arrived at Bulungula - (COMMUNITY NOTES - Xhosa - notes on board) - Nqileni hut - relaxed in lodge - met folks - had veg curry and brandy cake - signed up for activities for the next couple of days - sat up talking late 

22.01.2014

• Women Power with Doris and Heather - Nomantease - daughter took camera - head wrap - face clay - carry water - collect wood - cook food - chat about life - kids and dogs about - ate and walked home
• Relaxed for a while talking to new friends - horse back riding galloping along the beach - up the hills with views of river and ocean - through village - and home
• down to beach - windy - back to shower and get ready for dinner - bobotie - games with new friends - Pete from England; Tim and Debbie, also from England; German couple; Tess from Johannasburg - bed at reasonable hour

THE FOLLOWING PHOTOS TAKEN ON MY CAMERA BY NOMANTESE'S DAUGHTER... 

STARTING WITH A SELFIE - NQILENI THROUGH THE EYES OF A CHILD

OK, BACK TO ME AS CAMERA-PERSON

23.01.2014

• Breakfast and then out for canoeing - long walk with couple from Cape Town talking about social and political action - MSF - got to boats - battled wind up the river - very hot - lovely day - stopped at end and came back - flying fish
• Walk up to pancake restaurant - butternut, cashew, and coconut; walnut, raisin, and caramel sauce - ordered a loaf of Xhosa bread
• Home to hang out with pals for a while and then off on a walking tour of the village - guide was a 21 year old woman from the community - started at Headman's house - talk about homes and rituals and community structure - through farm land learning about lemongrass enterprising project
• to preschool - talk with teachers - read with child - teachers are amazing as is school - headed up to a shabeen (local bar) - they only had change enough for me to buy a large maize beer - was a huge bucket - shared around the place - men on one side, married women on the other - rain broke - women wanted photos taken - danced and pulled Heather up to dance with them - boy came in with baby sister  who I played with and brother took photos of them - drank and then moved on
• Walked in light rain over hills down to hut - place where boys live for a month after their ritual circumcisions in a process of learning to become recognized as "men" in their communities - not allowed to wear clothing - painted bodies - huddled in blankets - visited by family who bring them food - circumcision completed by someone outside the community who is trained - man assigned as their guide during the process - boys there visiting - made a donation to them and left
• Walk home on the "shortcut" through the mudflats with the low tide - talked about village life and education moving people away from the community - development of Bulungula projects - Christian and traditional beliefs
• Back to lodge with enough time to take hot shower - parafin showers - as I finished getting dressed sky was bright orange as sun set below the dark clouds - went to lodge - talking with friends - someone called everyone outside and we appeard to see a deep pink sky with a full double rainbow - photo opps - that faded to a dark sky with lightning - very dramatic - ate veg dumplings with dal and chocolate cake 
• played games with friends - new group, friends from college in Colorado - stayed up late talking about social policy

24.01.2014

• breakfast - ride out with Pete - beautiful ride - goobdbye at gas station - lunch - bazbus - major storm - arrived in Durban - late and wet bags - finally had real interent - stayed up too late

25.01.2014

• morning chat with Kevin
• museum
• walk streets - victoria market - spices 
• Walk to waterfront - bad restaurant with sharks
• coffee - walk beach 
• carnival ride - movie tickets - walk and cab home
• cab to dinner - Vintage Indian restaurant - great food - cab to movie - arcade games - Jake Ryan movie - cab home - chat with Kevin