Chapter 7: Bocas del Toro, Panama

05.08.2013

• Started the day by making breakfast. Proper cooking! I made spiced corn cakes topped with: black beans mixed with Lizano sauce; over-easy eggs; a quick fry of onion, garlic, and tomato; and slices of avocado. There is something about preparing your own homemade meal that gives such a sense of satisfaction to your sustenance. 
• My chariot arrived, the van from Caribe Shuttle. I said goodbye to Alejandro who promised to be in touch and I hope he will. We stopped at another hotel to pick up a couple from San Jose, California. She is from Guatemala. Everyone says I made a mistake not visiting Guatemala on this trip. I respond with, "This won't be my last trip." Anyway, she isn't going to Guatemala on this trip either so who is she to judge! :)
• Arrived at the border and stamped out of Costa Rica. The actual crossing into Panama at this border involves walking across rickety bridge on planks that seem barely secured to rusting metal slats and many of which are missing between ancient railroad tracks down the middle of the structure giving an easy view to the river below. Apparently this narrow expanse was once used to move both pedestrians and vehicles between the two countries which could be unnerving when one would catch the sight of an oncoming semi truck. These days cars use a separate bridge. For this I am grateful.  
• Stamped into Panama and on our way in the new shuttle as part of the total package for the transport service. We arrived at a small dock across the street from a Chiquita Banana processing and shipping plant; Chiquita branded shipping containers stacked on Chiquita branded ships reminding us that the company owns every stage of banana production, the land stretching out for miles, the homes of many filed workers, and enough political capital to keep their interests entrenched.
• The first boat was full so I waited for the second which was fine since I then got to ride next to a couple of younger kids traveling with moms or grandmas who were fun to watch as they enjoyed our bumpy ride. The river channel opened to a broad expanse of water before arriving in Bocas Town on Colon Island in the Bocas del Toro (Mouth of the Bull) region, named to describe the rough passage between the islands out to the open Atlantic Ocean. 

• On shore I collected my bags and walked into town for some much needed calories. Restaurant Chitre was a small, unassuming restaurant on the main drag through town that provided another round of the amazing casado with tender chicken marinated in a balanced blend of spices, whole beans in a stew, rice, and coleslaw. A delicious and well portioned meal for a little more than $3. Me gusta! 
• Grabbed a $1 water taxi to my next location. This the main form of transportation between the islands with boats pulling up directly to restaurants and hotels when a more general port is not chosen. My driver slug our boat along the dock at the Gran Kahuna Hostel on Carenero Island and I walked into the vibrantly painted lobby with open views of the beach out front. I met my receptionist, Alex, a tall man with warm eyes and such a familiar presence as to make one feel like you just arrived at an old friend's home. Checked into a dorm room and met one my my 5 new roommates, Daniel, a man from Missouri who will be moving soon to Fort Collins Colorado, home of the New Belgium Brewery where I drank a 15 minute old beer with Kelly Skinner the day after being released from the hospital with a kidney stone on my spring break visit. But, I digress. 
• I settle my belongings and walked around the island checking out restaurants that I hope to blog about after sampling their menus. It's a small island but incredibly beautiful with clear water that leads from the shore, out along the reefs, and into the open Atlantic past its sister islands. By this time the sun was dipping on the horizon and the houses hidden in the hills across the water began to light up. My walk took me to Aqua Lounge, a restaurant/bar/hostel that offers a trampoline, sea swings (jump off right into the water), and swimming holes cut out of the pier the building sits upon. Tonight was also offered an open jam with local bands rocking to a mix of Latin favourites. Brian, a Canadian ex-pat, was working the grill tonight for the after-hours BBQ. This is good training for the restaurant he is about to open down the beach, his latest venture in a career that includes at least 30 other restaurant openings. Also met Kaivan, a local scuba guide and instructor who offered a tempting offer to pick up a new and (expensive) hobby. 
• I enjoyed the music in a largely empty bar (seems the main party is at a different location each night and Mondays are not honored at Aqua Lounge). A little low on steam, I came home to type and find my man for a quick goodnight. Trying to use some time to start planning for Brazil where I will find myself the end of next week, if you can believe it; I cannot. 
• Later I got into a conversation with someone about global food regulations and corporate food engineering. He proposed that people have the choice in what they choose to eat and that regulations make food production more expensive and complicated for producers. I sent him a website developed by the USDA with an interactive map of "food desserts" in the United States and their correlations with socioeconomic indicators. Our dominant culture in the United States place a great emphasis on individuality and the responsibility of each person for themselves while ignoring the context of personal decisions and shirking a sense of responsibility for one another. But, as my professor and mentor and friend, Susan Kincaid, might say, the structures of our society are arbitrary by nature - they could be organized in any fashion we choose and can be changed if we will it so. Let us not empower the primacy of our individual liberties to the detriment of emboldening our collective conscience. We should willingly set aside our sense of personal entitlement when the opportunity for public health, safety, and welfare presents itself, especially when it may benefits those who we have most disenfranchised and upon whose backs we have built our privilege. And to those who say that government regulation is paternalistic, I honestly don't care if government has a paternalistic relationship with the governed people - I just expect it to act in a way that shows the same level of nurturing and concern and investment and commitment that I would hope from any parent for their child. As Honest Abe said in the Gettysburg Address, government should be of the people, by the people, and for the people. Show me a company with such a motto and I will show you a not-for-profit, socially conscious cooperative, not a multinational conglomerate. 

06.08.2013

• Breakfast snacks and morning typing. Feeling less romantic about my accommodations between the A/C that woke me up shaking with chills in the middle of the night, the relentless and vicious sand fleas (that can carry Leshimaniasis), and the frequency of lobby conversations about heavy partying and drinking. 
• Weather a bit overcast so decided it was a good chance to explore Bocas Town and look for art, crafts, grocery stores, services, and, perhaps, another hostel. When hungry I stopped for a fresh pineapple smoothie at Frozen & Creamy, a pink-painted ice cream shop with two servers as sweet as the menu. I had to stop back into Restaurant Chitre, this time for a beef bone soup, then continued eating at Bocas Blended, a converted bus that features juices, wraps, and salads and dawns a bus-top patio. Later I found Super Gourmet Bocas, a grocery store and deli for all of my gluten free, organic, kosher for Passover, and local chocolate needs. On my way back to the water taxi I ran into Kaivin at the dive shop where he works. He is a persistent salesman. I am now officially signed up for my first scuba (self-contained underwater breathing apparatus) dive on Thursday. Deep breath in and out.
• Took a water taxi back home and relaxed for a bit before wandering the trail to the north end of the island where a small hill leads to a bluff with a fantastic view of the shoreline, the near islands, and the bull's mouth emptying to the open sea. Back home I laid on the hostel's dock in the fading afternoon light trying to get that tan that Kevin doesn't want me to get (as a safety concern, of course) while trying to avoid sand fleas. In fact, on the north side of the island there is a small beach that is nearly empty of people while the dock protruding into the water is piled with bodies seeking the same benefits in off-beach tanning. 
• Back home (and doused in bug spray) I grabbed an open hammock and a recent issue of Juxtapoz Magazine, a San Francisco based art mag that someone left in the lobby stacks. There was a very interesting article about and interview with Northern California artist, Mike Shine, who channels that wisdom of a Dr. Pyotr Mastolf Ilyas, shortened to "Flotsam," a Russian clown who has used social figures through the ages (F. Nietzsche, S. Kubrick, M. Shine) to expose the answer to the World Riddle in a faustian game to toy with humanity. Got that? Great. Honestly, I can't think of anything more interesting to read and no better reason to tout the importance of art in our lives. Go to a museum or art gallery! Appreciate the art around you every day! Make art!
• I ended up talking with Amelie, a chill German gal who just arrived on the island and to Gran Kahuna. I invited her to go to Aqua Lounge for drinks where we found two differently sized balance boards which are basically just wood planks straddled across tubes to create a teeter-totter to practice balance for surf and skate boarding and spin tricks, of course. We got a good workout for sure and walked home covered in sweat and laughing at poor Amelie's broken sandal.  

07.08.2013

• Woke up from another terrible night of sleep. Way too cold and intense dreams these days - lots for my psyche to process, I suppose. Chatted quickly with Kevin and checked out of my hostel, caught a boat into town and checked into new hostel called Hostal Hansi, a smaller residence where I have a private room with a balcony and private bath in the heart of Bocas Town. It'a a bit more money but it is less of a surfer hostel and the crowd here seems a bit older and quieter (which, apparently, I am). Owners, Muhammad and his wife (whose name I forgot to write down), are very friendly and keep a very clean hostel. So far, my favourite lodging on this trip. 
• Walked to get cash and groceries and then found lunch at Gringo's Mexican Restaurant where I met the Gregs - one owns the restaurant and has been here for 12 years; the other Greg lives on a boat with his dog after retiring here 8 years ago. Both are warm and quirky characters who I enjoyed sharing many laughs and some tasty food with. 
• Back home to collected my things and caught a boat over to Bastimento island, courtesy of Jampan Tours, for a day at Red Frog Beach, one in a series of beautiful beaches facing the ocean with big crashing waves to body surf on and warm, white sand to lie in. This is a no camera day (aka, a "no cameras to have stolen while I am in the water" day), so please enjoy the images that Google so generously has provided for your viewing pleasure. It's pretty much just like it seems, except real. A surprise visit from Amelie who showed up after her snorkeling tour. We took turns playing in the water and shared a short walk to a vista point at the near of the the beach by the newly constructed restaurant. How much can one say about a day at the beach (without annoying their reader)? It was lovely. Oh, and another sloth sighting! 
• I arrived too early for the next boat home and so I took a walk and found another hostel that also offers adventure tours - more zip lining! Tempting, but this is going on the "next time" list. Finally made my boat back with the sun setting behind the haze of the afternoon, skipping swiftly over the waves and crashing down on the water after catching a strong wake. This was one of the "movie moments" of this trip where I feel dropped into great cinematography and can almost hear the musical score piping in Dolby. 
• Home to shower and eat; all the walking and swimming worked up an appetite. Blogged a while and relaxed. Talked to Kevin. Bed. 

08.08.2013

• Scuba! I has to arrive at Starfleet Scuba by 8:30am to meet Kaivin for orientation and skills practice. It was a bit too early for my still-not-sleeping-well system but thankfully the dive shop is across the street from my hostel. A short (and cheesy) video, equipment review, verbal review and testing, underwater sign language instruction, and then suiting up and into the boat. We motored out to a site called the shipwreck where an old car ferry rests in 30-40 feet of briny water. I was nervous. That moment being strapped into all that heavy gear and leaning against the side of the boat and then, "Ok, just roll backward into the water" - a little unnerving. But once I was in, it felt so natural. Having grown up swimming and boating made for a comfortable transition. We practiced the primary safety skill in the water, maybe just 3 meters deep, and then dove out to the wreck. The long hull of the boat is maybe 100 feet long, rusted orange, and teeming with life: sea horse, lion fish, giant crab, squid, eel, to name a few creatures spotted. Along with my other guide, Manuel, we swam around the ship, along the top of the deck, and up onto the main platform where lowly stood a solitary commode. The water was cold and not as clear as other waters I have seen on this trip but my first dive experience was unforgettable. On the boat ride back to land I felt this sense of peace, of pride, and a renewed sense of connection with the sea. I barely noticed the goosebumps on my wet skin in the cold wind of our ride. 
• Home for a quick bite and then back in the afternoon to watch videos and take tests. It reminded me of Lifeguard training and the corny videos we would watch at in-services in the cramped office at James Lemos pool in Benicia. I also had to complete a swim test but forgot to take goggles and had a rough few laps off the dock in the salty water. Then, home to rest. I felt a bit exhausted from the dive and then sitting in a small, hot room watching movies for an afternoon. Think I took in some salt water in the swim too. 
• Chatted with Kevin while doing research on Panama's history (start page). When deciding where to have dinner I opted for good humor: back to Gringo's. There is a tension in traveling between wanting to explore everything trying something new every moment and the desire to find some consistency, some familiarity, in an ever changing journey. A recommendation made in study abroad orientation at UW was to become a regular when abroad as a way to find comfort and make connections. So, back to Gary. He was such a delight and very generous with his tequila pours when making a margarita. When I asked for sour cream, he ran to the store to get more. When I called him over to order, he replied, "what did I tell you to do if you need something?" to which I called back, "Gary, get your ass out here!" to which he laughed and attended my table. Another good meal and a sense of place; perfect. 
• Back home to drink hot tea with honey, take probiotics, and slurp Bio-Boost. Still feeling a tickle in my throat and do not want to get sick and miss out on day 2/2 of scuba training. Mold in last hostel and the A/C running all night and missing too many nights of good sleep equals "bad plan." Hopefully tomorrow is a new day with healthy immune system. Thankful for the work my body is doing for me as I suffer the side effects. 

09.08.2013

• Back to Starfleet Scuba at 8am for more training. Videos, tests, practice putting together and taking apart the equipment over and over and over again. My instructor for the day, Michelle, just moved to Panama from England to work lead dives as a Master Diver but hopes to one day live in Africa and climb Mount Kilimanjaro. In the afternoon I went for my final dive test to cover more advanced skills like taking my equipment off and replacing it 40 feet beneath the surface, something which I expected to make me very nervous but was actually quite comfortable. Conditions were not as good today - worse visibility, no sun, cooler. But, after another successful dive I am now PADI certified to dive with a guide and can upgrade to solo diver later if I choose. Kevin... South Africa?!
• With the short time left in the afternoon I bought a bus ticket to Panama City and booked a hostel that my fellow traveler, Mieke, suggested. I went for dinner at Chitre. Came home and watched a TV show on Netflix called Archer. If you are offended easily, do not watch it. If you enjoy being offended, search for it now. Please feel free to judge me. 
• Drank peppermint tea with Bio Boost and lemon and honey - throat is fine today but got some sinus stuff this evening. The whole of town seemed to smell of fumes this evening: petrol, diesel, propane, cigarettes, bug spray, perfume. The only pleasant smells were those of people cooking food which only made me hungry. Something about a food cooking just makes any space feel more like home. 
• Goodnight chat with Kevin, my sweet. 

10.08.2013

• Finally a full night sleep! Ate breakfast, ran some errands, and got in line for another boat back to Bastimento Island to enjoy one last day at the beach before heading to the big city. Met Markus on the boat, a German from Munich who just finished his Doctorate in Aerospace Engineering with a dissertation in user controls for robotic systems. I heart geeks. We arrived to the island and found a nice spot in the sand to stash our stuff before taking turns between browning and bathing. 
• After a while we decided to explore the island's other beaches, first wandering up the road and down the path toward Wizard Beach. A large rock face provided some shade and a dramatic backdrop for the mostly empty strip of sand. Near the cliff was a large sphere of iron and fiberglass coated in epoxy with gaping holes exposing the rotting and rusting layers. More sunning; more swimming. We walked to the end of the beach climbing over felled palms and rounding the corner of the bay onto the next beach, this one more littered with ocean debris but with better waters for snorkeling as evidenced by the small group of folk with fins and masks prone on the sea's surface. The end of the beach brought us to a muddy jungle path up to a hut on the hillside affording a grand view up the north coast of the island. Onward down the path to another beach, then another path, then another beach, this one long and clean with smooth and clear water lapping gently at the shore. While pleased to find such a tranquil spot in the world to view the seemingly endless Atlantic Ocean we were also now concerned about this seemingly endless beach trail and our limited supply of water and energy. Disheartening news from a boat captain who had delivered a load of tourists to the spot: the only way back to the dock was the way we had come. So began the return trek in the unforgiving mid-afternoon heat. Through the brush, over hills, along beaches, past the hut, we walked. I draped my towel over my head and around my shoulders - a blue, microfiber shield against the elements like a modern dessert nomad. Up Wizard Beach, back on the road, onto Red Frog Beach, and quickly into the water to cool our overheated bodies. The salt caked on our skin as we walked back to the dock, waved to the resident juvenile sloth, and climbed aboard our boat home. Skipping across the water again. Our salvation ship. Farewells with my new friend and an exchange of emails. Markus carries a large camera and I am promised a few shots of our adventure that I will gladly post here for you when they arrive. 
• Back home for a cold shower and to drench my body in coconut oil, the miracle cure for sun kissed skin. A one block walk to Raw Sushi + Martini Bar for happy hour rolls. Saw Mieke and joined her table with an order of the tempura mahi roll, spicy tuna, and the tempura shrip at only $4 per roll. Mieke, I would discover, is a Latin teacher in Belgium and an avid traveler. She has given me such great tips for where to stay (my now reserved hostel in Panama City) and where to eat (sushi restaurant) that I am inclined to follow her advice whenever possible and took notes of her tours in India. It was great to have a relaxed and delicious meal with such a relaxed and bright soul. 
• Home to pack. Excited to get to Panama City and do laundry. An epic load of laundry. I basically want to wash every article of clothing in my backpack. Then I want to offload some of it. Then I want to clean every pore in my body one at a time and sanitize every piece of travel gear. Then, only then, will I feel clean again.
• A real "date" with Kevin tonight - a good hour of video talk. I will skip the details (as I usually do) and just say that I am excited to have such a wonderful partner who supports me and who I am excited to support in all his endeavours and that I am ever so grateful for the candor, sensitivity, humor, affection, and pragmatism he brings to our relationship. I am going to start a business bottling his amazingness when I get home and selling it on the home shopping network and high end department stores. Thus ends my ode to Kevin for tonight.