The drive down the Pan-American Highway included some history and social context about Costa Rica from our tour guide, Anni. She talked about their national health care program, immigration policies, the influx of migrant workers, the national oil system, and the economy of coffee production. Coffee producers here were up to a yield of 70 million tons of coffee was only 22 million this past season due to climate conditions and infestation. The economy is reeling from the lost crop and many are concerned about next season's crop. Anni also talked about the strong unions in Costa Rica, the Harvard MBA campus in San Jose, and an unemployment rate of only 4% in the country. A good, brief education.
The bus landed us at Irazu Volcano, an active volcano commonly referred to as El Coloso (the Colossus) for its destructive history. Today it is quiet and a walk around a section of the rim is quite easy. A few of us hiked to a viewing structure and watched the clouds roll over the mountain, concealing the 360 degree views that extend to the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans on a clear day. Back at the snack and souvenir shop, waiting for our departure, a small coati grazing for dropped food and explored the waste bins. A cousin of the raccoon, the creature was familiar in both appearance and comfort with park guests.
We stopped part way down the mountain to meet Rohan, one of Charlie's good pals who runs Bosques Modelo, the model forest organization in Costa Rica. The International Model Forest Network says that, "Model Forests are based on an approach that combines the social, cultural and economic needs of local communities with the long-term sustainability of large landscapes in which forests are an important feature." He gave a very articulate talk about the need for conservation education that meets the needs of people and the planet and engages community members and representatives from a broad range of public and private sectors. Bosques Modelo is based out of the Tropical Agricultural Research and Higher Education Center (CATIE) in Turrialba, where we eventually made our journey today.
Another stop, this time for lunch at a lovely restaurant in the hills. I took a moment alone and watched the mist rolling over the landscape while goats chased one another in the grass. Back at the tables and with a growing hunger, I volunteered to help expedite food for our group of nearly 70 people. Generally speaking I would rather work a party than simply attend one. We ate a wonderful meal of casado, a traditional meal in Costa Rica. It's Spanish for "married man" and is often a menagerie of rice, black beans, plantains, salad, a tortilla, and a protein. And, since we are on the subject of proteins (vegetarians stop reading), I would be remiss not to mention Chicharrón - fried pork back with a bit of fat. That isn't the best sell of a description but, if you eat pork, you'll be pleased. If you don't eat pork, practice your plantains!
Then it was off to CATIE for Kulshan's first concert of the tour! It began with a local choir from Turrialba that sang 5 songs. They were remarkably polished given that this was only their second ever concert! One of the singers, Kaley, is Geovanny's girlfriend, a student from Alberta, Canada, who helped arrange the connection. We entered singing Freedom is Coming, a South African social justice song, and performed another 13 songs with one encore. We did well in spite of the stifling heat and sweat soaking our formal concert clothes. After the concert we rehearsed two songs with the other choir which we will sing with them at our next formal concert on Friday.
The group retired to the Hotel Wagelia in Turrialba for a lovely dinner with our new choral friends. My table was joined by Andrea, Alejandra, and Anni (different Anni) with whom we exchanged family details, laughter, and, later, email addresses. Almost everyone at the table was involved with education in some way, many of whom worked with preschool and early elementary students. It's amazing what a bond that a shared vocation can be. The restaurant featured a solo musician who rocked out on the saxaphone to some United States favourites and incited a rousing sing-along to Unchained Melody.
What begins as singing always becomes dancing, and so it went, conga line and all, until Charlie separated groups to their respective hotels. Many of the places we will stay do not have the capacity to house us all in one location. Thankfully, Mama Heidi and I are staying at Wagelia and checked in promptly. The building resembles a Route 66 motor motel with a large courtyard between a single level horseshoe of rooms. Those staying here gathered to chase frogs, drink wine, and share in general merriment in the now-cooled air. My most precious moment of the night, however, was dancing a bit of ballet with Geof Morgan which began when he out-twirled me with a perfectly executed pirouette. Who knew that he had set aside a focus on music for a time in his 20's to pursue dance? A few spins, a few gentle lifts, and 1,000 smiles. That man truly inspires me. Time for bed. Some rest for the weary.
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