I walked with chorister Laura Chandler through local parks to the Museo De Arte y Diseno Contemporaneo (Museum of Contemporary Art and Design). There were two artists showing, one featuring pieces constructed of burnt materials with powerful social and religious themes; the other with images scratched, cut, and burned into human skin. The latter was a beautiful commentary on the impacts of globalization on Central America, the fading of local culture in the wake of monoculture, and the tension felt as a region between North and South America. It was quite powerful and rather breathtaking.
I then walked Laura through the streets of San Jose, past mural painted buildings and a local market toward the Museo Nacional (National Museum). In front of the museum sits one example of a perfectly carved, ancient sphere, others of which have been found throughout the region but for which the purpose or meaning is still unknown. I left Laura there and continued home to meet Alicia and quickly chat with Kevin before grabbing lunch (another salad).
Alicia and I took off to the Museos del Banco Central (Museums of the Central Bank) which has three exhibits including a history of currency that shows the impacts of changing social norms, trade, art, and architecture through centuries of developing monetary systems. They also featured an installation of Sofia Ruiz, a Costa Rican artist, and her show Yo Soy Los Otros: Una Fisonomia Propia (I Am The Other: A Physiognomy) in which she captures work showing various perspectives on the development of memory, identity, and relationships - beautiful work. The lower level houses a Pre-Columbian gold exhibit and highlights other artifacts and information about the life and culture of the original Costa Rican peoples. The three levels of the museum are connected by a grand spiral staircase that floats in air, supported only by its central beams - a terrific architectural structure.
Alicia and I wandered home past the street mime and other buskers in time to make our 5pm appointments for pedicures with Mama Heidi at DStudio, located downstairs in our hotel. (Sidebar: Mama Heidi is Alicia's mother but I and other have adopted her as our own and, in turn, she has taken to adopting the world - she is a universal mother). Another member of our group, Wizard (so named for the long white beard and general sense of magic) wanderd by and made fast friends. Wizzard carreies a sign reading "PEACE" wherever he goes and is a well recognized and well loved fixture in Bellingham. The sign often draws attention, sparks coversation, and opens up space to connect with people wherever he goes - an inspiring idea. He gave each staff member at the salon one of his pictures showing him walking one road or another in some season or another back in Washington (one of which sits framed in the living room of my dear friend, Josh). Of course, the staff insisted they get a picture with Wizard and he was happy to oblige.
Our group assembled and departed toward dinner at La Esquina de Buenos Aires, an Argentinian steakhouse. We were thankful for a young woman with her son who helped us find the place after getting separated from the group. The setting was warm and romantic and provided a convivial atmosphere to enjoy the house-made Chorizo, sweet corn empanadas, and an arugula salad with Parmesan. After plates were cleared, Mama Heidi set a trend with Limoncello aperitifs which the group took too enthusiastically. I helped Mama finish off her espresso-chocolate mouse infused with orange and topped with walnuts. We were joined by two Costa Rican friends, Hugo and Marcela, of our tour organizer, Charlie Walkinshaw - they shared tips for being a good guest in Costa Rica which includes declining offers politely (maybe tomorrow instead of always saying "NO") and, of course, drinking the Vino de Covol when offered it. Highlight of the evening: our fine waiter, Walter, cathing me looking toward the kitchen door and offering me a tour. Photo with Mama Heidi and a 30,000 degree asado grill below.
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