30.06.2013 – Monteverde, Costa Rica

I am finally well rested. I am still up far earlier than I would prefer but I feel more in my own mind than I have in a few days. Breakfast at our hotel came with a startling and disturbing revelation – a pool and hot tub had been tucked away around the corner from my room all night long. Had I discovered this fact earlier I would be prune-skinned, less slept, and blissfully happy. Trade-offs. We left our La Fortuna hotel to the sight of the Arenal Volcano puffing a short string of smoke, a sight that had even the locals gazing at the peak which is often obscured by cloud cover. Our hot spring going friends last night had been soaking at its base where, on occasion, one can chance the sight of lava streams rolling down the hill under starlight. One thing you learn in traveling is not to spend too much time lamenting the experiences you do not have.

The drive was beautiful though uneventful. We passed Lake Arenal and caught glimpses of a family of monkeys resting in the treetops. We made a quick pit stop and, with quick snack options limited to cookies and potato chips, I opted for a bag of fresh made tortillas and a confection made of shredded coconut and condensed milk. 

The road to Monteverde was long and slow, twisting through the hills and rising above the lowlands affording a view of the Caribbean Sea to the east and the Pacific Ocean to the west. The green rolling pastures with grazing cattle and mountain forests both contrasted the bright blue sky with its puffs of white cloud and islands in oceans on far off horizons. Even for people traveling from the beautiful Pacific Northwest who are not strangers to a stunning vista were awed by the picturesque scene and were camera-ready to capture the glory of it. I clicked, and giggled. The gravel roads to the town have deteriorated with time and weather conditions which locals believe has hurt the tour industry there. In fact, community members in Monteverde staged a protest that shut down a section of the Pan-American Highway to demand better upkeep of the road.

We arrived in Monteverde and were greeted by caravans of local folks who were there to whisk about half our group away to their home for the first of two home-stay opportunities on the trip. The home stays here were set up by a woman who works with the local Spanish language school who also makes such arrangements for their students. Alicia and I arranged to have the experience together and, when our names were called, we were greeted by Maria,  a lovely woman in her late 50’s with a warm smile and serious face. She was accompanied by her two granddaughters, Alison, 8, and Nahomy, 9. We took a short taxi ride just a few blocks and walked the rest of the way of a short hill toward her home. It was a simple structure with a large glass sunroom facing toward the mountains and the town. 

We put our things away and were offered a lunch of garbanzo bean and chicken soup with a side of rice and fresh salad. This easily sits in the top 5 meals I have eaten in Costa Rica.  We spoke a little, Alicia translating with her Spanish skills. We were joined by her daughter-in-law, Rebeca with 8 month old granddaughter, Alexandra, on her hip. Again, with the babies - each one makes me happy enough to want a plane ticket home and the adoption paperwork. I got a few smiles out of Alexandra but she did not take well to grandma's attempt to set her on my lap. We simply don't know one another well enough for that level of intimacy yet. Sign. Maybe tomorrow.

Maria showed us pictures of her family including Alexandra's daddy, Alexander, and a daughter, Anais. Her youngest son, Keilor, lives at home. We would be meeting him later. In the meantime, Alicia and I retired to our room to rest before the evening’s concert. Alicia wrote in her journal while I started an episode of the podcast, Radiolab. Appropriately, it was on the subject of musical language. I dozed off in the middle of tonal languages and woke up to Stravinsky’s Rite of Spring.

Alicia and I gussied ourselves and walked back toward town alone, Maria having already made her way to the church for Sunday evening mass. We joined our group outside the church, warmed up, and walked in singing Ariko. We sang 18 songs with great response from the audience including a standing ovation. Our host family was there too, Maria, Keilor, Anais, Rebeca, Alison, Nahomy, and even Alexandra. It was a joy to watch Maria smiling and swaying and singing in the pew. 

We joined them after the concert for a quick trip to the grocery store. Alicia and I, like two starving children, bought everything that looked attractive, and some chocolate for Maria. We walked home together, getting to know Keilor and Rebeca a bit better, still trying to make good with Alexandra. Back home we prepared for dinner with some confusion over wheat products and Alison showed us a Costa Rica mushroom identification book written in English and Spanish. We shared a lovely meal with a lot of laughter through our limited sharing of language and then Alicia and I insisted on doing dishes - scoring points with Maria and maybe setting a bad precedent for Keilor. Maria reported more than 30 home stay guests over the years. It is, of course, my goal to be one of the favourites. 

Time for bed. Very early wake-up call at 5:45 am.

29.06.2013 – Maleku Community, Costa Rica

The day began well before I was ready for it to with breakfast finished and buses loaded by 6:45am. We started the long climb toward La Fortuna from Turrialba. The Turrialba volcano spouted smoke to send us off toward the warmer, more humid lowlands of the Alajuela Province near the Caribbean Sea. We made two stops along the way for restrooms and snacks. At the first stop I gave into temptation for a tortilla queso similar to the papusas if of El Salvador. Something of a large, savory, cornmeal pancake, it was warm and salty with crisp bits of cheese that soaked through to the grill. I couldn't finish it myself and what I couldn't pass off onto fellow chorusters I dropped to a small dog who was clearly nursing and looked woefully thin. Our next stop offered lesser options in the way of food but did provide some animal entertainment as the area outside the roadside store was inhabited by large iguanas. They were wild in nature but accustomed to people - so much so that one posed for photos and approached with abandon to crawl on my leg seeking food scraps. This time, I had none to share with my animal friend.

Our two tour buses divided into groups and split in different directions down the road, one toward La Fortuna, our hotels, and a day at the famed hot springs. As a lover of all things water, it was with some heaviness that I watched that bus veer away. But, in our direction lay the Maleku community near San Rafael de Guatuso, a indigenous population of Costa Rica.  Charlie had been in contact with a community leader on an earlier visit to the country and asked if they would be interested in having us sing for them. They enthusiastically agreed and took to planning a day with us, the first cultural exchange of this kind these community members have had.

The day began with a general introduction from our primary host, Jimmy, with time for some questions from our group. We learned a lot in a short time, including that they are one of three  "palenques" or villages, in the area that collectively number more than 600 individuals. We also learned that the government of Costa Rica designated a “reserve” for the Maleku people (as they did other indigenous peoples of the country) in 1977 which, for the Maleku, consists of 3000 hectares. However, at that time the Maieko were only inhabiting 15% of the land, the rest of which was controlled by white people (it should be noted here that anyone who is not a member of a native Costa Rican group is considered to be White in this context, including other non-native Costa Ricans). The reserves do not provide any legal ownership of the land or its resources to the indigenous peoples and are therefore seen as little more than a mark on a map rather than a protection for the people. Members of the community have made some protests on the land of farmers who own land on the reserve in an effort to garner political attention but do not feel they have as much political capital as the wealthier land owners. After all, it was only in 1994 that the indigenous peoples were awarded the right to vote in Costa Rica. We also discussed their efforts toward reforestation, struggles with the local economy, the social and organizational structures of their community, and more about their relationship with the government of Costa Rica.

Our group would have continued asking questions for hours but Jimmy insisted that we break for lunch, a simple but delicious preparation of steamed fish and rice, fried plantains, salad, and fruit, with a sweet lemon drink on the side. After lunch we were gathered again for a presentation that was prepared for our group: a short drama depicting a story from the community’s oral tradition about relationship conflict, domestic violence, and community intervention. It was a striking portrayal that we then debriefed with the actors to better understand its meaning. Questions about other aspects of cultural life for the community also prompted Jimmy to coax his mother into a song – something a chorus group is always keen for. We also discussed the impacts of Catholicism and the Evangelical Church on their traditions and community.

Later, some members of our chorus were taken into the main residential area of the community while others of us gathered under a thatched roof building to greet nearly 20 Maleku children who were going to join us in our concert later in the evening. We selected three songs which each had a simple, Spanish language chorus. For one of these songs, Somo Sel Barco, we also sang the chorus in the Maleku language. The children were delighted to sing the songs and asked that we practice them over and over again. We did so as a deluge swamped our rehearsal site and thunder cracked so loudly that we could hardly hear the music. Children seem to be the highlight of my time in Costa Rica... or anywhere, perhaps?

With a bit of time before the concert we were able to purchase handicrafts, dry ourselves after a wet walk to the bus, and take a few breaths or a couple minutes of sleep. We eventually made our way up the road to their community center which doubles as a school house. 

(A sidebar: the government of Costa Rica provided the Maleku with the building but does not equally fund their education or materials. Members of the community teach their children the compulsory subjects and also provide Maleku culture and language education. Some children from the community do go onto University and some are living in other cities in the country in various professional sectors.)

The space was small but bright with murals of local flora and fauna. It was warmed by the smell of dinner cooking in the back room which was kind enough to overpower the smell of the amp we blew during sound checks. We preformed a shorter set as the sun lowered behind the hills and the children joined for the final three songs. They, of course, stole the show. Any trepidation turned to smiles as they sang boldly into the microphone that passed among them.

The evening concluded with a shared meal between the chorus and community members who were able to attend. An exchange of gifts and words of appreciation ensued and a rousing circle of the Hokey Pokey (obviously) before bidding our final farewells and stepping out into the rain toward our bus and heading onward to cold showers and early bedtimes.

On the one hour drive back to La Fortuna I thought about the difference between cultural awareness and cultural humility. Cultural awareness has become a popular term in the United States to describe the acquisition of knowledge about “different cultural groups.” Cultural humility, however, implies that knowledge of culture cannot be presumed and that learning happens through individual relationships. I had concerns about today's visit and still have many thoughts to process about the experience – some of which I may at some point share in a post. But the people we met in the Maleku community seemed genuinely happy with the day as it unfolded and it did feel like an opportunity for mutual contribution. I will wager for this moment that it was a well spent day and hope that it will inspire members of our group to continue learning from the experience we were generously offered and make some use of it back home in supporting the native peoples of the United States. 

28.06.2013 - Turrialba, Costa Rica

This morning a group of us were met in the lobby by the tour guide de jour and were loaded into a bus on our way out for a say of canyoning. At this point I still had no idea what that even meant. The team from Explornatura explained the process with a short demo after harnessed up in rock climbing gear. In short, we would be repelling down the middle of four different waterfalls and careening across the canopy on five zip lines. Scary? Exciting!

We hiked a short way into the forest and came to our first waterfall. Now, Mom, please know that these folks 1) are very well trained, 2) do this twice a day with inexperienced groups, and 3) know that dead tourists are bad for their business. That said, there is still a little moment of swooshing in my stomach as I step out onto the rocks next to the edge, clipped in, and leaned backward over the falls letting gravity take you away and the physics of pulley systems keep you alive. The trick seems to be keeping your legs straight, though not locked, and releasing the rope slowly. I would like to think that I got the hang of it quickly. I would also like to thing that the skin on my left hand will grow back. 

We found out quickly that it was quite impossible to stay dry on this trip. Once one could commit to that it was a freeing experience to embrace the feeling of the fresh water tumbling down upon your body. The last two waterfalls involved a short leap from the edge before swinging back and making contact with the rock face at a 90 degree angle. The added exhilaration was appreciated more by some that others, although the screams of terror were entertaining for those of us in the former category. The zip lines caused some anxiety within the ranks too. Our poor Linda was so nervous that she shook and so I just held her as our position in line advanced toward the platform. I was singing one of our chorus classics, Freedom, to sooth her which apparently worked so well that she adopted the technique as she burst into verse when she finally took off down the zip line. On zip line #2: the Hallelujah Chorus. In the end, fun was had by all and all survived.

At the end of the tour we stepped out of the forest, arriving at the main lodge for the tour outfit. We stripped off our "dry" shirt, grabbed fresh clothes from the bus, and made for the showers - a disappointing experience since we were not informed to bring our own towels. We gathered on the second floor of the building which looked out over Turrialba and the surrounding hills for an amazing lunch of salad, rice, fruit, and the most tender, savory chicken. We were shown a slideshow of photos taken of our group on the tour and collectively decided that a CD of action shots was a worthy tourist purchase. Those pictures will need to arrive on the blog later, I'm sad to say.

After a bus back to hotel I was able to snag a real shower and opened my computer to catch up on some communication. Other groups filtered in from their day's activities and gathered for chatter. With our door open, the room Mama Heidi and I shared quickly became the party room as wanderers dropped in to share their adventures and took on the atmosphere of a freshman doom room. I got to know a number of chorusters better and it was sweet to have some casual time to catch up. I felt as if it was another step in making new friends and  also made me miss my loved ones back home. 

I lost track of time and needed to spring in getting dressed to make it in time for mass at Iglesia San Buenaventura De Turrialba, the local Catholic church. We were singing there later in the evening but I wanted to participate in services before. It was a simple service complete with communion and felt familiar and foreign all at once. Last summer I attended weekly Catholic services at a Maryknoll outpost in Phnom Penh, Cambodia for the two months I worked there and found new appreciation for the faith and its followers. There is a great deal of overlap between the tenants of world religions and the work for social justice despite the ways it is often used to the contrary. As a Unitarian Universalist, my higher-self holds space to find value in all faith traditions. Taking the opportunity to connect with the practices of others feels like an opportunity to grow in my humility and respect for diversity. 

The choir convened in the park across from the church to warm up and organize ourselves. White ribbons were distributed and affixed over our left breast to honor a young person from the community who was recently murdered and to whom this evening's concert was dedicated. After taking our seats in the pews, the concert was opened by two local choir groups opened for us, one of which had opened for us at CATIE two nights before. This was the first time they had the chance to sing in church and their beautiful voices were resounding in the cavernous concrete building. 

When it was our time to sing we lined up in the back of the building and marched down the aisles to the song, Ariko. The audience now filled two thirds of the seats and filtered out the side doors and were roaring with applause on our approach. We sang a full concert with a brief interruption from a dramatic exchange between two members of our audience that ended with a man being escorted out of the church - it did not break our stride and we finished our set with great response. The two other choirs joined us for our final two songs, Freedom (the song Linda sang on the zip line) and This Little Light of Mine. It was a magical concert and the first time that I began to really understand what I was involved in.

Headed back to the hotel for a quick dinner where I got to catch up with our guide Anni a bit more and hear about her family and work. She had a gig recently as the personal companion for an Australian woman touring Latin America for 6 months! As she spoke of the moment realizing that no amount of money could make the distance between she and her family seem worth it, I could not help but think of the 12+ months that still lie ahead of me...

Back to the room to pack. Bus leaves at 6:45 tomorrow morning... sheesh. 

(Insert Imaginary Images of Canyoning)

27.06.2013 - Pejibaye, Costa Rica

Another quick breakfast and a ride over to Pejibaye, a small community on the river in the largest district of the province of Cartago. This region is known for coffee and sugar cane production and thrives on agriculture and is a leader in environmental management. They have developed a community cooperative organization to manage key resources and services from the local church and cemetery to the aquifers and community center. This allows them to encourage sustainable practices and provide mutual aid and engagement for community members.

We were brought into the local community center and introduced to three community members who took Kulshan members on three different tours: one to a family farm to learn about sustainable growing and eco-tourism, another to an aqueduct to learn about water quality and community development.
I chose the third option, a trip to Colegio Ambientalista de Pejibaye, a local environmental education high school. Our group took off down the street and around the corner from the community center, led by Ilana, a former student of school and now active member of the cooperative association. We were introduced to the vice principle and the environmental education teacher who talked about the school and its mission. They are focused on changing culture in Costa Rica by changing the hearts and minds of people through environmental education. They focus on theory development for principles of conservation, including the interconnection of humans and the environment, as well as practical skill application. The school has around 350 students in 5 grades and provides standard education required of them as a state school – just like any other high school. Then, they provide additional curriculum and requirements for students, including a senior project in addition to the national exam required by the government to receive a diploma. There are only three schools like this in the country and they have excellent educational outcomes and are highly regarded. 

A tour of the school's garden included an introduction to the paste plant used to produce luffa sponges! 
Walk through community to a sustainable housing project which combines eco-friendly building and energy management with community education for sustainable practices. On our way we found some lovely local people and some giant grasshoppers... oh, nope, those were locusts! We also stopped at a local recycling center where one local has taken on the role of materials collector and initial recycling processor. His pet parrot gave us a warm welcome too. 

We returned to community center to have lunch - a traditional meal of rice, picadillo (another Costa Rican staple, made with plantains in this area), frijoles (beans), fried plantains, a fried egg, and a tortilla, all wrapped in a banana leaf. This is a common meal eaten by local farmers which can easily be transported for long days in the field. It was served with a sugar cane drink with ginger. This was easily the best meal I have eaten in Costa Rica.

A bit of free time was spent napping near the soccer field and the returned to the group to debrief our experiences of the morning with learning from each group. We were joined by a small dog looking for love and scraps of food (aren't we all, really). He was unsuccessful in garnering any bit of the raw sugar cane we were given to chew on - a delightfully refreshing sweet-treat with a satisfying crunch as you chew on the stalk. 

I got up to get water in the middle of our group processing which somehow became a trip to a local bar with Sonja, Alicia, and our birthday girl, Linda! We talked about boys, made funny faces, and tried to get our barkeep to sing a round of karaoke with us (sans karaoke machine, of course). A few toasts and laughs and then we slowly made our way back to the group in time for set-up for the evening's informal concert. 10 songs with one encore and a great response from the community members who joined us. We sang a few of our South African songs including Osiyeza to honor Nelson Mandela who we spent a full day believing had died.

    
After a wee nap on the bus we arrived at our central hotel for dinner and a few laughs and a flaming cocktail toasted to our birthday girl. Some dancing, some singing, some packing for another busy day tomorrow.