Namibia

10.02.2014

• Arrived in Windhoek - run around with taxi who took me to the wrong hostel - arrived and checked in and was quite pleased and relaxed. Woman showed up shortly after who had been on my bus - overheard her saying she didn't know what she was going to do with her time in Namibia so I asked if she wanted to join me for the week of travel I had planned - clearly concerned that I was an ax murdering rapist she reluctantly agreed after providing some travel references and assuring her that my boyfriend did not approve of ax murdering. 
• Got ready and made my way out to explore the city of Windhoek - started by stopping by my rental car office to make sure that was in order and I knew where to pick up my car the following day - then walk past the early 20th century church that stands vestige of the German colonial history in Namibia - tree with photos of children with dates written on them and Afrikaans and German quotes on the back had me a bit concerned thinking they were memorializing the young ones and came to discover it celebrated the date they were baptized - phew
• Walked on past the state house and found myself at the National Museum - first room pretty standard natural history with taxidermied animals from the region - did have an educational/conservationist bent with particular regard to the sport hunting and poaching of the rhino population for their horns which are considered an aphrodisiac in some segments of the _____ culture - also cheetah conservation and the various challenges which face that species including farmers who kill them to "protect" their livestock and the fact that killing them is not illegal in the country despite their "THREATENED????" status - Next exhibit followed the history of the ____ and the _____ peoples of Namibia with particular regard to history, social practices and structures, and their political movements and resistance to colonization - HISTORY of Colonization by Germany - concentration camps after the 1904 war - Final room focused on images of the San people, historically seen as the quintessential "bushmen" of Southern Africa - exhibit actually a critical commentary on how the image of the "bushman" has been essentialized and crafted by archaeologists, historians, and museum curators (including those from this museum through the 1980's) and how those images of "traditional," "authentic," "pure" Africans both marginalizes people and works to deprive them of a real history and future in context to the social and political environments they live within - San people in Namibia have been popularized and commercialized at the same time they experience great hardship and low human development indicator outcomes (literacy, life expectancy, etc) - also focused on positive steps government has taken to help the San people and the ways in which San communities are advocating and acting for their own rights and well-being trying to further dispel the notion that they are only a group to be acted upon as opposed to actors themselves - so, the next time you consider buying a ceremonial mask for a ceremony and people you do not know or a figurine of a half nude (often caricaturized) person/people, ask yourself what this item is actually trying to represent and why you want to own this representation of it. 
• Next stop: lunch. Funny that the French don't have a huge population or major role in the history of Namibia but do have a brand new and beautiful (stands out) cultural center in Windhoek - attached restaurant, La Bonne Table, where I had a great little quiche with side salad - rain - art exhibit in restaurant of photography students - lovely work by _____ and _____  - exhibit at cultural center which had made an interesting decision to show two Namibian artists, both male, who both focused on images of African women, many of which had either a folk or sexual representation - while some of the imagery was quite beautiful it did, at my first glace, feel a bit objectifying and lacking diverse perspective for one show
• Next stop was the National Art Gallery of Namibia which has one exhibit and another in the making - the current exhibit is from artist, Isabel Pinto, who prints digital photos on large swaths of linen which hang like artistic tapestries, all with the theme of "Family." Some of the images were quite beautiful but I was surprised to see so many European faces in the National Art Gallery - looking online I can see a listing for an upcoming show of "Namibian Sub Pictures" with an image of two topless Namibian women with their traditional hairstyles and jewelry which, of course, makes me think about the museum exhibit about representations of 'native Africans"
• Stopped by the National Theater  of Namibia to see if there was anything playing the next few days but nothing really caught my eye so I wandered down to the mall to find a salon to get my hair cut - wonderful woman who cut my hair - had worked in Angola for a few months but was happy to be back in Windhoek - asked if I was a volunteer because "most people from overseas come to Namibia to volunteer" - thinking about how people from wealthy countries have developed an image of Africans in need of our help and how that has created an image of us - stopped at the store and then walked downtown - past a store called Bushman Gallery which was specifically mentioned in the museum exhibit for their capitalization on African imagery - had to go in - 
• Now it was time for what the whole day has been leading up to: meeting up with my mentor from the University of Washington in Seattle, Tracy!!! She has been coming to Namibia every few months for the past year consulting with the social work program at the University of Namibia - was hoping our paths might cross on my travels and, in truth, had been lingering around Southern Africa waiting for an opportunity to meet up - caught her in front of the Kalahari Sands Hotel where she is staying and tried really hard not to squeeze her to death with all of my excitement - we walked to dinner at Primi Piatti, a Southern Africa - great to catch up on all she has been doing since I left home - walked to the rooftop bar at the Hilton for a nightcap - heavy rain - I talked about travels and let her in on all the internal conflicts I have about what to do with my life when I get home - she, as always, offered insight and good questions while advocating for Kevin here and there (they are officially in cahoots, I know it) - I really do respect and adore her (and not just saying that because I know she actually reads my blog on occasion) and it was great to have her company again - will see her this weekend too but you will have to read more about that later in this post
• Walked home and ran into Auriole, the woman with whom I will be traveling this week and not murdering - talked about plans and got excited about our next travel stops - met Jen, a choreographer from Canada now living in London who gave us some good travel tips, oogled my travel spreadsheet (did you not know I have a massive, color coded spreadsheet for this trip?!), and invited me to join her in her garden hot tub in London later this year - life is good-night

11.02.2014

• Chatted with Kevin in the morning - got packed up after breakfast - went out to collect rental car - first time driving a manual with my left hand - tried to book a hotel at tonight's destination but was way too expensive - went home and made final arrangements with Auriole and we were off!
• Drive out of town and hit a check-point in the first hill - passed easily and then hit gravel road - it would now be a gravel road for the next 300+ kilometers - beautiful landscapes - rolling hills of various colours - dry river beds - water has not made it south in years - open fields - running ostrich, orax, antellope, water buffalo - long and hot and getting to know one another
• Stopped in Solitaire, populaton of 92 people - service station with a lodge and a bakery - legendary apple pie that I later found out started as a bartered item for pin-up photos - delicious - had lunch in the restaurant before loading up on water and heading out again 
• Arrived in Sesriem just outside the Sossusvlei National Park - Dessert Camp - amazing permenant canvas tent with private bathroom - patio overlooking the veld and the mountains - went back to the bar to swim in the pool - had a G&T and talked with other guests - great rainbow - guest said it was her cousin traveling with her who had died several years ago - took an evening walk out into the dessert and up onto a small hill near the camp to get a view of the sunset and moon rise - walk back and rested at the bar - watched Terminator 2 on television with the staff who live in Windhoek where they have a three year old son - bedtime

12.02.2014

• Up at 5:15 to get ready and get out to the main gate of Sossusvlei National Park - arrived by 6am to wait for 6:30 gate opening - third in line but beat by those who stayed inside the park and could move around inside earlier - gate opened and drove on 60k of tar road as the sun began to rise and warm the valley with colors of gold and pink - mountains became sand dunes, large and orange-red, rising high on either side of the road - stopped for photos along the way but were first to arrive at the end fo the road - parked our car and got into a 4x4 opperated by the park which takes folks the last 5km to see Big Daddy, the largest sand dune in the world - picked up four photographers along the way who had gotten stuck in the sand - a couple from South Africa though one is originally from Australia and another couple from Souther California though one is orginally from the Czech Republic - two had met last year while filming for a rhino documenatry for which they had walked thousands of kilometeres in the desset over two months - another of which was pitching a wildlife show to international networks - all who were lovely and friendly and talented
• Arrived at Big Daddy - climbed the ridge - barefoot in cool sand - dropped down into the pan, a term for a dried up flatland between - hard clay with the skeletons of old trees standing in the middle of the driness - walked around for a bit - chatted with friends - walked back - took 4x4 out to Big Mama, less than 1km away which sits above the pan called Sossusvlei - stood in the shade - 4x4 back - run in with Dutch tourist - saw friends from hotel - drove back - late to get our bags from hotel 
• Arrived to collect our things and enough time for Auriole to call her mother - drive to Solitaire - more treats and a tank of gas and adjusted tire pressure - drive north - bit of rain - beautiful scenery changes - not as hot - long stretch to the coast of flat land - finally arrive at the coast in Walvis Bay and drove up to toward Swakopmund - cute seaside town - not what I imagined from the description of a PeaceCorp volunteer friend I met in Cape Town - dropped Aruiole at her hostel - went inside to make arrangements and then said goodbye - will see her again
• Drove to pick up Vickie who works for NaDEET, an organization that does environmental education - we talked as she directed me to her new home - has only been in Swakopmund for a month since the main office of the organization moved here - arrived at her home which is the house belonging to Rosemarie, a woman I had met sailing in Cape Town, new Director for NaDEET, and my generous host for my two nights in Swakopmund! Lovely to see her again - showed me around the house, got me settled, and we had tea in the living room and talked for hours - poor thing had just had dental work and was ready to knock off early - Vicki and I stayed up chatting about life and work and school and whatnot - off to bed after a little computer work - amazing how sitting for days can make one tired...

13.02.2014

• morning chat with Kevin - sound didn't work but nice to see him and type with him anyway - got up and got ready and spent some time getting my e-life together
• went to check on Auriole - not feeling well - will come back to get her later - went to museum by lighthouse - very different from Windhoek - history began with German colonization - 
• Back to get Auriole - went down to waterfront to have lunch - went to get groceries and dropper her at home
• Picked up Rosie and Vickie at work - got some more info about the organization and drove them home - they both had calls to make - Rosie helping get some last minute issues settled before they all leave for field on Monday
• Went to dinner at Tiger Reef - wonderful place right on the beach - met a bunch of locals - small town - had the best french fries of my life - great conversation over cocktails - shut the place down - what a wonderful set of new friends
• Home and to bed 

14.02.2014

• Pack up and get ready to head out - stopped by NaDEET office to say goodbye - promised to invite Rosie and Vickie to my wedding someday so they will have a good reason to come visit in the states 
• stopped by to get Auriole - couple needed a ride to Windhoek - loaded up the car for a long, 4 hour drive - long and flat - all tar so can go fast - couple is from Germany and Australia - met three years ago and trying to make a relationship work - first time seeing each other since they met - very sweet - maybe Kevin and I don't have it so bad
• Back to Windhoek and dropped everyone off - checked into hostel again - got gas and returned rental car - then rested for a bit - long few days of driving
• Walked to meet Tracy at her hotel - she gave me a Valentine's card from Kevin - swoon - walked to restaurant called "nice" which is part of the cullinary institute - set menu for the holiday which was not veggie friendly so we had cocktails and chose two of the four small plate options to snack on, all of which are different versions of cooked or fried potato - gerat conversation about anything and everyting and more - really love Tracy's company - really feel like our friendship cemented a bit more - maybe because it is the first time seeing her after no longer being a student
• home to send some emails and chat with dad on Skype - bed

* That's me with a Valentine's card from Kevin, delivered by Tracy = swoon

15.02.2014

• Woke up early to get ready for a long weekend excursion - left a message for Kevin to say Happy Valentine's Day! - he is in transit to LA to see his brother for the weekend which, sadly, was supposed to include mom and step-daddy whose flight was canceled - I am sure they will still have a lovely time together and sad not to be able to join him - missing so much Skiena time this year after just getting a chance to fall in love with them all before I left
• Pick up from Wild Dog Safari truck with Tracy already on-board - going to Etosha National Park for a weekend of camping and wild animal spectating - Auriole on board as well - new friends include Sarah and Gabby, two vet students from Germany; Thomas, the French guy on day 30 of 400 travel days; Camila, a lovely woman from Sao Paulo, Brasil whom I was delighted to talk Brasilian food and culture with - out guides were Ian and his assistant, Job - Ian has worked in various sectors of conservation and wildlife management for years and would prove to be one of the most knowledgeable tour guides I have encountered in all my travels
• Started with a brief orientation at the Wild Dog office where last-minute logistics were settled out before we got in the truck to start the 500km drive to Etosha in the north part of Namibia - we stopped along the way, 60km outside of Windhoek in a town called _____ - town where rememberance celebration occures each year to honor those who lost their lives fighting against German colonial occupation in the early 1900's - shopped at a craft vendor market where Tracy bought us tree nut ornaments which have been carved with designs and our name - well, mine says "Michael" but Tracy's says, "Traci." Close enough. We took a coffee break before getting back on the bus while Job looked for our lost shopper, Camila
• On the road again until reaching a next pit stop and then lunch at a pull-out picnic spot along the highway - packed up and headed onward to the park, still 280km from our lunch stop - entered the park from the south gate and quickly found ourselves surrounded by an impressive assortment of Afircan mamals - impala, water buffalo, springbok - then a lion spotting! My frist time seeing a big cat in the wild - a bit far away and resting but beautiful creature
• Head into camp site called ______ where we climbed the viewing tower while Ian and Job got us registered for space - many of the camp sites in the park are reclaimed German military outposts - the tower on this site was used to purview the land and send warning communication across to other posts - the spaces are now a combination of luxury lodges and campsites replete with swimming pools, small stores, and beautiful restaurants and bars
• we found our camping spot and set up tents - Thomas and I went to buy supplies (gin, tonic, and chocolate) and came back in time to help prep dinner - I came close to failing my simple job of slicing carrots - Job is very particular but a great cook so I worked hard to be a better sous chef 
• most of us walked to the water hole to watch the sunset - walled and fenced viewing platform overlooking a small body of water where animals often come to refresh themselves as tourists oggle them - returned in time for a delicious meal and some friendly banter around the campsite before walking back to the now-dark water hole again - this time we were delighted to see a single rhino drinking at the hole - so beautiful but terrible photos - one of those times I want a "real" camera - 
• walked back to camp - stayed up late talking to Ian about his work history and fun stories from the field - people walking by told us there were more rhinos at the hole so we tredged back to find two mamas, each with a baby, drinking at the pool - one mama waded in to cool off and baby followed but changed its mind and then cooed for mother from the shore - she seemed to give a sigh as she turned back to appease her water-weary baby - walked back with Ian chatting more and enjoying the full moon overhead - what an amazing start to our Etosha trip - great sightings, great food, great comapny - happy boy take a shower and curls up in his tent across from one of his favourite people and goes to sleep with a smile

16.02.2014

• s

GREAT PIC TRACY!!

 

17.02.2014

• Up early and packed up - still looking at issues with truck - got things patched as well as they could and then headed out toward the next large town, 120km away - arrived at truck repair shop - had lunch and then waited - van coming from Windhoek to collect us but it arrived almost the same time the work was finished - fight with owner of repair business who held us up because he couldn't be bothered
• Met up with van and drove the long ride back to Windhoek - caught an amazing sunset - got off the highway in the city the same time as the truck with our guides - dropped people off and said goodbye to some new friends
• relaxed for a bit - watched Malcolm X - Afrikaans guy talking about race - had a very tense conversation - importance of white people talking to other white people about racism - becoming an ally is an undertaking of lifelong learning - off to bed 

18.02.2014

• Up early to meet Tracy for coffee in front of her hotel - she gave me a very sweet card that I opened later - talked on the street while she waited for her pick-up and then had a nice hug goodbye - will really miss seeing her - sigh - more goodbyes
• Stopped to pick up a card for Kevin and went home to pack up and check out - traded photos with Auriole - she and I dropped off items at Tracy's hotel for Seattle delivery - went for lunch at Craft Cafe in the Namib Craft Market - 40+ vendors selling goods from Namibian artisans - 
• Home and taxi transfer to airport had arrived early - sent a couple of messages and then said more goodbyes - will miss my nutty, redhead, peach of a Brit travel companion - big heart and great spirit 
• Cab ride with Myles to airport - checked in and made my way to terminal - chatted with a woman who is Director for a government office on her way to a summit meeting in London regarding HR practices - bought her a coffee and had a great chat before we loaded on the plane
• Easy flight to Johannesburg - quick transfer and wait for my flight to Nairobi, Kenya - flight felt longer than four hours - antsy tonight - watched a couple of movies and read a bit - 
• Landed and made it easily through immigration and customs - paid in US dollar I took from the ATM - my first time using USD since Panama in August - man waiting outside with my name written down - met up with Ryan who just arrived from Ethiopia - had been working in South Sudan at a consultant for a US military firm - left as the fighting erupted in the past weeks - arrived at hotel and got into my very comfortable hostel bed - sleeping in Kenya - my life doesn't make sense to me sometimes